Competition Testing
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How strong does it need to be? What determines the strength rating?, etc.
We have auto rotisseries that are rated from 1500 lb. capacity to 4000 lb. capacity. The Automotive Lift Institute which certifies garage type 2 post and 4 post lifts generally requires a 3x strength requirement for safety factor in the design with low carbon steel that we use. When I decided to market a lift in 1988, that I had designed for our own project, I decided that 2x was sufficient for the application. Rotisseries are designed to keep people from working under them, so they didn't need the 3x limits of 2 post garage lifts. This would also keep the price within a range the typical hobbyist could afford.
So when we say 1500 lbs, we have designed the unit to hold 3000 lbs. at the end of the 4 arms that attach to the car body, without the steel being stressed beyond it's yield limit, such that it was permanently deformed. This weight is freely sitting on those arms, not double bolted to the car frame, so your car is part of the structure holding the end of the rotisserie up
You see all kinds of claims out there for 3000 lb. ratings, etc. We have not yet found a competitor's rotisserie that we we would rate at 3000 lbs. We have found units that we would rate at 750 lbs. to 2000 lbs.
As a direct result of some previous postings on our web site, one manufacturer shows a 5000 lb. vehicle on his rotisserie. Well, it's a good illusionist trick worthy of pulling a rabbit out of the hat, but doesn't change the real strength of his unit. I'm not saying they doctored the photo. However, they hope you won't notice that the car is supported way back close to the base of the attachment arms, not at the ends like your body will be mounted. Even a small 1.90" O. D. pivot pipe that they use, would take over 30,000 lbs. in pure sheer stress, but it's the bending stress that is in play here. Kind of like lifting a bucket of water of the floor, then trying to do it raising your arm straight out to should height. It's force times distance problem. If I wanted toimmediately make my 1500 lbs. unit honestly a 3000 lbs. unit, all I have to do is reduce the attachment arm length from 15" to 7.5". (assumes the other components like casters, etc, would take it).
I have attached here a photo we took the other day to demonstrate that we mean what we say. We have here a 1974 Roadrunner, less seats, engine and transmission. I haven't had it weighed, but would guess it's about 3000 lbs. We put it on our 1500 lb. Bottoms Up Lift. We used the hard caster version, as the 12" pneumatic casters are only rated for 500 lbs. each. You will notice no center tongue sag here also.
It's mounted at the end of the 15" attachment arms, like your car will be mounted.
Our 2000, 3000 and 4000 lbs. lift are that much stronger. 1500 lbs. is plenty if you have the car stripped. If you want to keep the glass, doors, trunk on, you probably need 2000. If you want to keep the suspension, you probably need 3000 lbs. Our 4000 lbs. unit is designed (originally) for Chrysler people so you can remove and attach the K frame while on the rotisserie. Pick which one fits your needs.